While we get busy decorating our homes with a Christmas tree and some garlands, a more traditional custom here is a nativity scene, they are one of the main features of a local Christmas. Known as Betlems (as in Bethlehem), these scenes are set up in public and private spaces across Spain. You will find Betlems (Belen in Castellano) in shops, town halls official buildings, private homes and anywhere in between.
Varying in scale from the stable and main character vibe (Jesus, Mary and Joseph) to a whole town of Bethlehem with everything from the market traders to the farm animals, they are lovely to look at and to help kick off the christmassy feels.
What makes it even more fun is the annual spot the caganer hunt. Playing an integral part to the traditional Betlem scene, these are perhaps the most popular, certainly the most searched for figure of the lot. Caganaer literally means… ahem, crapper. The Amics del Caganer say that these little statues humanise the nativity and harmonise the “transcendent and supernatural” message behind the Christmas story. In other words it brings it down to earth.
Whatever your take on it, it is certainly unique to the region (this is a Catalan tradition from the late 18th century) and the caganer can be a ‘lovely’ stocking filler/secret Santa gift for the right person. If you don’t buy or receive one of your own, join in the “where’s the crapper?” Race when you and your family stop to look at a Betlem this Christmas. Note that he will be hidden and certainly not visible from the more holy section of the party.
In Palma, the Consell de Mallorca unveiled its Belen in the La Misericòrdia building when the city’s Christmas activities kicked off. It is one of the largest nativity scenes on the island, which recreates towns and emblematic places of Mallorca, with more than 30 Sqm and 250 figures. It has been set up by the Association of Nativity Scene Makers of Mallorca. In addition, the scene is completed with a display of openwork neules, which will be available until January 5, from Monday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 21:00.
To see how it’s really done, head to El Corte Ingles in Palma where the Betlem takes you on a little journey.