Every July, fishing villages along Spain’s coast gather for the Virgen del Carmen fiesta. Here in the north of Mallorca, Puerto Pollensa’s celebrations are the most significant.
While the saints day is the 16th July, Puerto Pollensa’s fiesta always peaks on the last Sunday before, and the town comes alive with a pretty flotilla in the bay followed by a dramatic running with fire (correfoc) with local demonis, and a grand firework finale at midnight.
A full programme of events during the week before always includes the popular Marinera 7km run along the frontline, by the sea. There are concerts and children’s parties, folk dancing and ballroom in the square, the Saturday night is the popular La Gola party with DJs and plenty more. Check our What’s On page for the detailed programme as it is published each year.
Virgen del Carmen: The Final Day of the Fiesta
Maritime Procession
On the Sunday before the 16th, boats in the port are decorated with bunting, flowers and lights and set sail in a flotilla to accompany the image of the Virgin on a parade around the bay. The main boat with the Virgen del Carmen statue sets off from the Old Pier, behind the yacht club, and once on land the parade continues by foot with the municipal band ushering her into the church for mass.
Correfoc - Running with the Demonis
On Sunday night, the “dimonis” throw fire through the streets in a frenetic parade that culminates in sparks and local joy. The much-anticipated correfoc is a brilliant experience, it may be a bit daunting and less daring kids will probably find it scary but for those who are a bit more adventurous, they will love it. Teenagers here head out in hoodies so they can jump and dance with the demonis (some of whom they probably know from school).
Be careful of the sparks, they can burn through your t-shirt but can also be easily brushed off. If you’re planning on getting close to the action, make sure you’re wearing cotton. You can still see it all without getting too close. The demonis leave the roundabout (at the entrance to the sailing club) at around 23h and the correfoc continues to La Gola.
Fireworks for the Virgen del Carmen
Once the demonis have reached their destination at La Gola, they have lit their last Catherine wheel and the flames across the promenade have all burnt out, attention turns towards the beach. People grab their spot on the sand (or a sunbed) and wait for the fireworks to start. Normally placed on the jetty, this grand fireworks display never disappoints and is a fitting finale to a long week of partying.
Origins of the Virgen del Carmen Fiesta
For this fiesta, we have an 18th century admiral to thank. Antoni Barceló Pont de la Terra was born from humble beginnings and worked his way up the naval ranks based on his skill rather than social standing – a sign of how talented a sailor he was.
Antoni Barceló led battles and anti-piracy campaigns and was regularly commissioned by the authorities to intervene or transport people on the crossing between Palma and Barcelona. One of his legacies is making the Virgen del Carme him and his crew’s patron saint that they celebrated each year in hope to gain protection at sea.
Popularity of the Virgen del Carme increased until the eventual adoption in local culture and the annual fiesta now marks the Virgen del Carme every year.
Sant Pere vs. Virgen del Carmen: Two Patron Saints for Fishermen?
Of course, we have only just celebrated Sant Pere’s in Puerto Alcudia (and to a smaller extent in Puerto Pollensa), so why is there another fiesta for fishermen two weeks later? Well, it’s a bit same same but different.
Sant Pere is the Patron saint for Fishermen, because of his own past as a fisherman, he is also associated with net makers and shipbuilders. This is different to The Virgin of Carmen – referred to as the Stella Maris (the Star of the Sea) – she is a popular figure among sailors and is considered their protector and guide at sea.
In short, Sant Pere celebrates the community bond of fishermen at the end of June, while the Virgen del Carme (Our Lady of Mount Carmel, in English), in July, represents the spiritual protection of the Virgin over the sea and those who cross it.
The Virgen del Carme is THE patronal fiesta for people who live in Puerto Pollensa. It is much anticipated and the long programme of events and parties make it a magical fortnight in the town. For tourists, to witness it and take part in the celebration during their holiday make this a true highlight of their stay.